Billy-the-Gardener has been at it again – always working in the garden and coming up with new plantings and plans – this one seemed appropriate as we come into cooler Fall temperatures and thoughts of indoor plants come to mind….
How to grow ivy from clippings:
Ivy grow extremely well in most parts of North America. I do not know the climatological zones, but an easy way to know if this or any other plant will grow in your area, just look into your neighbours’ yards. Be careful of public parks, because you often find plants brought in just for one season.
Ivy is such a successful grower that in some of the United States, its cultivation is banned because it can climb over and overwhelm all the other plantings.
Find a healthy looking clump or clumps of ivy. Ivy comes in many varieties with foliage colour variations.
Snip off a long leader of about 8-10 leaves from the plant. As you examine the leading 3-5 leaves, you will notice that the underside of the main stem opposite any leaf stalk is smooth. Examine the stem junction underside of the next 6-8 leaves and you will likely see small nodes projecting opposite leaf junctions…these are the start of root systems which naturally help the main plant to spread. At about 8-10 leaves the main stem may start to look stiff and woody…this area does not easily root.
Cut out the entire stem portion which carries leaves 4 and 5 as well as 6,7, and 8. Cut the stem above leaf number 4 to within 1/4 inch of the base of number 4’s stem. Leave 4 and 5 intact, but gently snip off only the leaves numbered 6,7, and 8, close to the main stem, leaving the root nodes intact.
Prepare a planting base which easily drains, about 6 x 24 inches to support the glasses, by filling the base half way up with a sandy soil mixture.
Place the 10 plastic glasses evenly spaced into the base, and fill these glasses and the surrounding support area with sandy soil to 1/4 inch from the glass brim to allow easy watering. The glasses isolate each plant, just in case a fungus starts, to prevent fungal spread.
Put about 1/2 teaspoon of rooting hormone, available at garden centers, into a small glass like a shot glass and add a few drops of water to make it into a thin slurry / paste. Use a small craft paintbrush to paint the rooting hormone onto the root node areas of leaves 6,7, and 8 even if not all stem junctions yet show a rooting node. This will stimulate a root system, here.
You may dip your subterranean stem length into cinnamon, as it seems to be an anti fungal agent. Poke a pencil into the soil in the cup, place the hormone ( and cinnamon coated ?) stem of 6,7,and 8 into the space and pack the soil back tight around the stem. Allow leaves 4 and 5 to sit above the soil.
Water the entire planting base and glasses system well, and slide it into a clear plastic bag or plastic sheet to prevent evaporation. Tent the plastic to protect the leaves. Place system into a dappled sunlight area. Open the plastic after 4-5 days to re- water, leave it open to the air for a few hours, then reseal. If a plant seems to keel over at its base, that could be a fungus…you can get anti fungal chemicals, but my 24 plants survived nicely with no fungus.
In 3-4 weeks, if you gently tip one glass sideways, you will start to notice roots forming. I plan to plant my entire propagating system uncovered, buried in the side garden to a depth even with the surrounding soil, over the winter season, before I transplant the new cuttings…they will have a great root system by the spring.
Plant the new cuttings in clusters of 3-4, in the same style sun / shade environment from which you harvested them. That way the new plants will not be shocked or sunburnt.
Thank you so much Billy – I’ll be replicating this with a couple of plants I have here.
Have a great one!